#4 - Symmetry and sunsets

It was inevitable, really. My embarrassing lack of German - which consists mostly of ‘danke’ and then a series of polite points and nods - finally caught up with me on Thursday as I battled to navigate Germany’s complex public transport system. Up to this point, I had gotten away with my useless grasp of the language by choosing the menu item or drink with the shortest name and least amount of syllables - you'd be surprised how many tasty German things only have four or five letters in their name. Thankfully.

The beautiful Nymphenburg Palace at dusk.

I needed the train to get to Nymphenburg Palace, situated about 20 minutes west of Munich. To get there, I had to catch a train and then a tram… unfortunately that crucial second detail was lost on me and I searched vainly for the 17 train in Munich Central Station for about 20 minutes until a very patient conductor pointed me outside in the direction of the tram station.

I didn't know much about Nymphenburg Palace, but the tram stops right outside a picturesque canal that leads directly to the the stunning grounds. For someone with an almost a sexual attraction to symmetry, it really boiled my potatoes. Basically, Nymphenburg Palace is a massive collection of symmetrical buildings built around a central palace. All of it is surrounded by a sprawling, picturesque man-made English garden. Construction of the palace started in the 1600s and a series of opportunist future kings lived there and gradually added to it up until the late 19th century. Inside, it's an elaborate and kaleidoscopic homage to the art and architectural styles of the 17th and 18th centuries, punctuated by the immaculate central pavilion, which features a hall resplendent with stunning chandeliers and even more awe-inspiring ceiling artistry.

After touring the palace, I went for a wander in the English garden, which mixes moody forest with open lakes and wooded trails. Although it was deathly cold now, some of the trees were still dropping their leaves in a final nod to autumn, creating a carpet of colour atop the grass. Being able to kick through the leaves was such fun and something I'd never done before. Simple pleasures! As I explored my inner child, the sunset began to pierce through the trees. All of a sudden, this perfect golden hue enveloped the forest in yellows and orange, and as I kept walking, an 18th century monopteros (rotunda) appeared, beautifully bathed in golden light. I grabbed my camera and snapped away like a madman. That's three amazing sunsets in three days… Munich, stop showing off!

Built in 1860s, this neoclassical monopteros was lit up when a golden sunrise bathed the park gardens in beautiful yellows and oranges.

It was such a special moment for me. I was almost completely alone in this stunning place. I have no idea why it wasn’t rammed with people, but I was so content with the isolation. This is exactly what I came to Europe to do. To explore, to reinvigorate myself, and to rediscover my spark.

From a balcony at the rear of the main palace, this stunning view unfolded in front of me.

As I walked back towards the tram, I realised that I never felt more alive than when I'm out in nature during golden hour. There's something so serene and emotion-charged about it. As a bit of an introvert, I expend so much energy in social situations to the point that I often feel exhausted afterwards. Yet I always feel so recharged and alive after a hike or a photo walk. I vowed to do it much more often once back home. For now, Munich was recharging my batteries again and again.

This bloke was loving the sunset. Aged probably in his 60s, he was giddy and took out his little point and shoot camera to capture the moment.

Across the road from the tram stop, a cosy little Bavarian pub screamed out to me. I could see a fireplace roaring and now that it was dusk and chilly to the bone, it could not been more enticing. In I went, and what a good decision that was. Even the novelty of hanging up my coat in front of a fireplace had me giddy. I'm in Germany! In winter! Hanging up my coat in front of a fireplace! And the pretzels are free! Kill me now. It was the first of many beers that evening. Myself and my man Rick later met up and ended up at the awesome Augustine Keller, a traditional beer hall in central Munich. It was without the finest beer I had ever tasted. Thanks for the tip Suzie! You outdid yourself. The scenery was as delicious as the beer.

One of the many dozens of residences that dot the Nymphenburg Palace's park grounds.